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| The "Escalante Loop" is self-named trip I like to lead that sort of meanders through Southern Utah, dips into Northern Arizona for a bit, winds back up into Utah and then we head back to Las Vegas. There is so much to see in this area of the country that I could lead trips here every week all year and never do the same one twice. Literally that is true, and part of the challenge as a guide is to decide what to show clients, what to tell them about that they might be upset about not seeing, or to just stick to the planned itinerary. This last trip had two ladies, one from Clarkston, Michigan and the other from Albequerque, New Mexico. Both are photography enthusiasts and were eager to maximize their safari. That in mind, and the small group size, allows us to make changes 'on the fly' so to speak, and alter the itinerary at a moments notice. Having a broad knowledge of the area allows that to happen quite easily, and frankly, it is a bit more fun when the participants have a say in what they go see.
This trip was originally to have started at the Coral Pink Sand Dunes near Kanab, Utah, but we decided to head down to the Toroweap Overlook of Grand Canyon National Park instead. It's quite remote, very undeveloped and there's not a guard rail in sight. One can imagine Grand Canyon as it was before it was named - raw, undisturbed and quiet. I'll have this page displaying the photographs I took during our safari, but if you click on Heather or Sandi you will be able to see their photographs, read some of their thoughts, and view the safari through the eyes of a client. It is, after all, the opportunities that abound for them (and you!), that make these trips so exciting. Showcasing our clients work will be a major part of what we do from now on in these Safari Journals. We hope you enjoy seeing our safari participant's work also. |
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| Heading down the road to Toroweap you find the Mount Trumbull school. Built in the early 1900's, it is now an open museum that has been lovingly restored by the locals and citizens of St. George, Utah. The school is very remote, and the doors are open for visitors. There is no one there to greet you or answer questions, but inside the school are many different displays of old-time country school life. Photographs, old classroom supplies and a working bell are a few of the surprizes you find there.
Sandi decided she wanted to break in her Nikon D100 in by photographing the fluttering US flag. |
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| The interior of the Mount Trumbull school. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| On the road around Mount Trumbull we found several patches of brilliant violet flowers. We only saw them near the summit, and they were just peaking in their color and blooms. I'm not really sure what these delicate little flowers were...research continues.
Interesting to all of us that we only saw them in one isolated area near the summit. UPDATE: Sandi went home and properly identified this little gem of a flower. It is the Prairie Verbena. Glandularia bipinnatifida var. bipinnatifida (=Verbena ambrosiifolia; Verbena bipinnatifida; Verbena ciliata). DAKOTA MOCK VERBENA. Annual or perennial. Reported from Yavapai, Coconino, and Apache counties [McD, V. ambrosiifolia]; found or reported in Yavapai, Coconino, Navajo, and Apache counties, 5000-10,000 feet [McD, V. bipinnatifida]; throughout region at 2000-7000 feet [McD, V. ciliata]. |
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By the time we had arrived in camp it had been several hours in the truck and Sandi and Heather wanted to get out and shoot.
There was some weather moving in and the sunset shots were pretty bland until the sun dipped below the horizon. That's when the clouds started to get lit and things got visually interesting very quickly. I was busy cooking dinner but had to grab my Nikon D1x for a quick campground shot. Handheld at about a 10th of a second, it was all I had time for. Luckily I had the 17-35 f 2.8 lens on (one of my favorites). I couldn't resist, but this shot resulted in the roasted garlic being sacrificed on the grill. After a show like we had that night, no one was missing the roasted garlic. Since the group was so small I decided to put each guest in their own tent for the entire trip. Here we have three Mountain Hardware tents set up, and had the rain flys handy - just in case. As we ate dinner we could see quite the lightning storm to the NorthEast, which is where we would have been camping had we headed to the Coral Pink Sand Dunes. We were glad we were able to stay dry that night. I got up in the middle of the night to check the sky and the lightning storm was still quite active. Those heavy rains would alter our trip quite dramatically. |
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| After the previous night's light display it was clear as a bell the next morning.
Toroweap is a wonderful location to see the Grand Canyon, mainly because it is so remote. Save for a few permanent campsites which are usually packed in summer, and a commode, there's nothing there to tell you that you're even in a National Park. This view is looking toward the SouthWest, and you can see in the shadows coming in from the right two seperate lava flows. This region of Utah and Arizona was very volcanic, and cindercones and lava flows are quite abundant. These two lava flows actually dammed the Colorado river backing up water for miles. An interesting juxtoposition considering we were going to be seeing Glen Canyon Dam later on in the day. |
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| This is our custom-built Land Rover we call the CrewCab. It is our flagship and is setup to handle just about anything we have thrown at it.
Toroweap is a journey not for the faint of heart. Even though there is a pretty decent road in and out, if you are not completely prepared to take care of yourself, you must accept the consequences. Fortunately we always are and travel to remote areas like this in confidence in our abilities and in the equipment. More times than not we have helped others who did not go in quite as equipped as we were. |
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| Paria Canyon is the scene for dozens of western movies. Complete with a restored movie set, this litle area is just oozing with the quintissential western ambiance.
The striped buttes are especially rich and vibrant in this canyon. There are other places in the area where these stripes occur, but this is the most vivid and plentiful display. The Pariah river meanders through these badlands and enters a narrow canyon that is a very popular hike. An old settlement used to be in this canyon but repeated flooding and attatcks by local Indians forced the settlers out. A very small cemetary is located in the canyon but is difficult to find. |
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After leaving the Pariah movieset we headed in to Page, Arizona to check on weather conditions and to see about our trip we had planned to Canyon X the following day.
We had some time to kill in the afternoon so we spent some time at the Glen Canyon Dam Visitor's Center, walked around Page a bit and then went to a little draw to photograph just south of town. You can see that there is some severe weather coming in from the left of the photograph (looking southwest), and our afternoon hike was cut short due to lightning that was very close and the threat of heavy rain (dark clouds = heavy rain). We had fun, but had anticipated hiking a bit further. I don't like to argue with Mother Nature, so when she says move, we do. |
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| I love finding the little things that make an area special. Here's a detail of lichen and sandstone layers in the area where we were photographing shown in the picture above.
Not long after this we decided that the lightning was a little too close and headed for Page. Originally we had planned on camping north of Lake Powell near Alstrom Point that evening, but the threat of heavy rain nudged us closer and closer to a hotel where we found ourselves staying for the night. We had planned on having our hotel stay in Escalante a little nearer the end of our trip, but we decided to err on the side of dryness instead. |
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| The following morning we woke up at 5:30 to the sound of heavy rain falling on the roof of the hotel. I was very dissapointed, because it had rained all that night pretty hard.
Slot canyons are created by turbulent swift moving water carrying a lot of sediment, and the conditions were ripe for Canyon X to be filled with water and pose a serious hazard to anyone venturing in. I met with Jackson Bridges who was to be our guide that morning, and he said that any entry into Canyon X was off. So we went back to the hotel, looked over some maps and as I stepped outside to look at the weather Harley Klemme drove up in his truck. Harley is the outfitter in Page who runs tours into Canyon X, and he wanted to stop by to see how we were doing. He suggested heading into Monument Valley, that he thought we'd get better weather down there, so we took his advice. It's nice to have friends like Harley and Jackson looking out for you. I didn't shoot much in Monument Valley, the light was pretty dead, but the scenery was still spectacular. We wanted to camp this evening, and we still had to setup camp on the north side of Lake Powell, so we headed back to Page. |
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| We stopped to stretch our legs and to photograph these sheep that were grazing next to the road heading out to Monument Valley.
The dog that was guarding the herd hurried them off when it saw Sandi and Heather approaching. Shot with my 300 2.8 and D1x. |
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We got into Page late in the afternoon, gassed up and headed up to Big Water, Utah for the turnoff that would take us where we wanted to camp that night at Alstrom Point.
To get to Alstrom Point you need to cross Wahweap Creek, and with all of the recent rains, what is normally just a trickle was a pretty good running stream about 2 1/2 feet deep and 30 yards across. The water was moving pretty good, about as fast as you can walk before you start running. I'd been across that streambed a dozen times before and knew that the river channel doesn't really change regardless of how much water goes through there. It never gets dug out badly and the channel is very wide and flat. I didn't see anything in the water to make me nervous, so we put the CrewCab in low-range, 2nd gear and locked the differentials and in we went. A few nervous heartbeats later we emerged from the other side none the worse for wear. |
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| So we get across the swollen creek crossing and onto the road heading out to Alstrom Point. All along the way there are black sections of the landscape. These are from coal and shale deposits that dot the area. Prehistoric lightning strikes have ignited the underground coal seams and the Smoky Mountain Road is named for the haze that lingers in the area on calm days.
The U.S. Departnent of the Interior's U.S. Geological Survey has placed markers of various significance around the landscape. To the right of the photograph you can see a small concrete plug where there is a marker embedded. The sign says 'please do not remove'. This area does not recieve that much annual rainfall, and careless visitors who leave the main road leave tire tracks in the soft dirt that will last for years. Fortunately the deeper you go into the backcountry on this road the less you see the evidence that results from uneducated off-road enthusiasts. We got some decent light as we traveled down this road, unfortunately the skies grew thick and the clouds never lit up from below. |
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| The following morning we awoke to another glorious day, after being nervous from showers and lightning storms we could see in the area as we went to sleep.
We got in the truck and headed out to where we wanted to photograph near Gunsight Butte. A short 10 minute drive got us out near Romana Mesa overlooking Lake Powell before sunrise. |
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| Sandi was the more adventerous of the two, getting precariously close to the edges of several 1000-foot cliffs (we never had to actually restrain her...), making us nervous at times. Hehe.
Here she is out on a point overlooking Lake Powell. Please don't step off the edge Sandi...please! |
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| Looking to the SouthEast towards Gunsight peak at the far right of the frame. Gunsight Bay is the body of water in the foreground and is a secluded little nook that is popular with house-boaters. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Sandi (foreground) and Heather (back) were all over those rocks. They definitely got a workout both scrambling physically around and mentally working the camera, making decisions about lenses, lighting, composition and swapping out flash-cards.
Heather's mantra that week was 'gotta download again'. I think she must have shot 10 gigs worth of .NEF's! Gunsight Pass is the saddle in the rock in the center of the frame near the top. |
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| Looking due south from Alstrom point you see the mesas on the opposite side of Lake Powell. They are on the Navajo Indian Reservation in Arizona.
You see a lot of automobile advertising being shot from the south side of the lake looking north. The Navajo Nation has an active film commision and is quite lenient when approached about using their land in commercials and movies. One of the nice things about shooting on Lake Powell in the morning is the light and the layers and textures it creates and hides as it climbs in the sky. This is the time of day that Tawàyama Safaris was named for. |
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| Afer breaking camp we headed out the road back to US 89 at Big Water, Utah. We stopped in at the BLM Visitors Center to use the facilities and check it out.
It's only a year old, and is absolutely wonderful. Many displays to captivate the imagination of kids and adults alike. We headed west on 89 then took the Cottonwood Creek road heading north into the Escalante Grand Staircase National Monument. There are dozens of locations to stop and photograph along this road, but one in particular that stands out. It is unnamed as far as I know, but when you see the goblins and spired pinnacles rising from the red-soiled badlands you know you are there. |
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| Wonderful patterns are eroded into the soft mud and clay that forms much of the area along Cottonwood Creek.
This is an area called The Cockscomb because the rocks are tilted and slanted and jut into the sky in a straight line for miles...looking much like a Cockscomb. |
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| Here's where we camped near Devil's Garden south of Escalante. These little markers are placed at sometimes strategic places, sometimes are completely random (that I can tell).
I love finding them and photographing them. Betty Risser runs a company called Geo-Situ and she makes replica markers for significant places from all over the world. She looks forward to recieving e-mails with photographs documenting these markers. Her companie's website is at www.geositu.com. |
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| Devil's Garden is a neat little spot just south of Escalante, Utah on the Hole-in-the-Rock Road.
Lots of walking paths wind through enough goblins and anthromorphic sand-stone formations to satisfy even the most ambitious photographer. I like the mornings there because it's so peaceful and it's enough of a challenge to get into early in the morning that you're usually the only one there. I find myself gravitating to these 3 goblins each time I come. Even with all the recent rain, the streambed was nearly completely dry. |
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We met this gentelman from German named Achim Fischer.
He had been to this spot several times and was waiting for just the right light. This particular arch is called Metate Arch and is only about 6 feet in circumference at it's most narrow point. He was working for a German photography magazine and knew the area quite well. He was shooting a Sinar F2 with a 5x7 back on it and a mixture of Rodenstock, Schneider and Nikkor lenses. Shooting Velvia and Provia we talked about the issues traveling abroad with unexposed sheet film and bulky equipment. A very nice gentelman and he even gave Heather quite a thrill when he offered to show her what it looks like under the dark cloth on the ground-glass. She was not familiar with view cameras so we talked a lot about optics, the camera, composing upside-down *and* backwards. A brief basic introduction to the view camera. It was an unexpected educational moment for her that made her think in a different way. It made me very nostalgic to have my 8x10 Deardorff back again. (sniff...) I'll get that 12x20 ordered soon! |
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| This was the last day of our trip around the loop, so we didn't have as much time for exploring as we would have liked.
We found a side draw and went up Harris Wash. Found a spot to park that looked interesting. There were a lot of striped sandstone and neat rock formations, so we got out to hike around and see what we could find. With all the rain in the area I knew it was just a matter of time until we found something neat...just what it was going to be is part of the fun. |
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Along the drainage areas on the slickrock sandstone you will find naturally occuring depressions. Over thousands of years these are naturally carved out to form what are called 'potholes'. These will fill with water during the wetter parts of the year and completely dry out during summer.
Surprizingly even though the surrounding sandstone is devoid of life, there is an astounding amount of life in the potholes. This particular one had a tiny frog in it about an inch long along with water skeeters and several other swimming insects. During the summer the frogs bury themselves in the sand going into a kind of hibernation waiting for the next rains to come through. |
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I saw this interesting scene of tiny rock fragments cemented together in loose sand with a defined edge that must have been the high-water mark for the recent rains. It was pretty interesting I thought, so I took a little detail pic.
Embedded in the rocks are all kinds of interesting things, one of the most intriguing are little round stones called 'Moqui Marbles'. They are either volcanic or meteoric in nature, and a third theory says that they were formed by extreme pressure and releasing gas. A Google search got me some interesting theories but nothing definitive. |
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| Heather found a neat pool that was perhaps the biggest one we found all day. She was photographing this scene when Sandi and I returned from our little side-hike. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| We decided to head home towards Cedar City then to I-15 south to Vegas. We had to go over a 10,000 foot pass near Cedar Breaks State Park, and the leaves on the aspens were absolutely gorgeous. Had to stop and take the traditional 'fall colors' shot.
I won't be seeing much of this in Vegas this fall, so it was a real treat. |
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| Heading south on I-15 the clouds were doing some neat things and I thought that we might see something cool if we popped into the Kolob Canyons area of Zion National Park.
I don't offer tours there, but the timing was right, the light was doing it's 'thing', and we were in the mood for one more beautiful vista. We were glad we stopped. Many thanks to Sandi and Heather for a great trip! |
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